Choose Your Friends (and Dog Trainer) Carefully

I've been doing some thinking and reading lately, and there's something I really need to get off my chest, so bear with my rambling.
I train dogs. I help with behavior modification, problem solving and simple obedience training. I don't call myself a 'dog whisperer', behaviorist, or someone who strives for 'fast, effective results'. I also do not 'guarantee training results'.
If I spent my time speaking softly to dogs, I suppose I could call myself a 'whisperer' but that's not what I do and honestly I think it sounds weird.
I do not consider myself a behaviorist because I do not (yet) have a Master's degree or a PhD. To call myself a behaviorist, I need a lot more knowledge and a lot more experience; I'm just not there yet.
I never, ever, ever, never promise fast and effective results from training. Unless the only problem you have is a stinky dog (the resolution for which is a good bath), odds are there isn't a quick fix. It's simple to teach behaviors using just about any type of training, but it's the generalizing and proofing that takes time. By the way, generalizing and proofing need to be done with any type of training, which is why it's not accurate to offer fast, effective result.
I don't guarantee training results. Not because I don't believe in my work or my methods, but because training requires lifetime maintenance. I cannot guarantee that you, the owner will keep up with training after our lessons are done. I certainly hope you will, though.

Enough about me. I want to talk about you. You and your dog. Your dog who chews up everything, who only listens when you have treats in your hand, who forgets everything you have worked so hard to train as soon as you open the freaking front door. I've been there myself. I've been there with clients and the best part of my day is when a client says "I can't believe he's listening! I never thought that would happen!" The second best part of my day is knowing I helped them achieve that without harming their dog or their relationship with their dog. I want you and your dog to get to that point even if I never get to meet you, even if another trainer is the one who gets to share that moment with you- I want you and your dog to have that because it's a great feeling.

Now, to pick a trainer...
It's tough to choose a trainer for your four legged family member. I've had to do it and luckily I got a great one on my first try. The first place you can turn to is your veterinarian. I spend a lot of time and money getting to know veterinarians and letting them get to know me. I offer free education sessions for staff members at vet clinics as well as puppy folders with information on development and early training tricks. I answer all questions they ask me, and I thank them for their referrals. I want them to know they can rely on me and trust me with all of their clients. Next, I do the same with groomers and breeders. My point is this- a good trainer, who cares about their clients, community and reputation will do this, and the names you (usually) get from other pet professionals are the folks who are putting out some effort.

You have a name from your veterinarian, now what? Seriously? You have an internet connection and the name of a stranger who you may invite into your home? Google it! Do they have a website? Email address? Phone number? Education? Credentials? Are they listed in the search of any organization devoted to training? If a trainer has an undergraduate, graduate or doctoral degree, especially in animal behavior it's typically a good sign that they will have a solid understanding of canine behavior and development. Specifically, I tell people to look for someone who has any or all of the following designations after their name: CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, IAABC, CBCC-KA, APDT, ACAAB, CAAB. Now, these aren't the only designations you may see, just the more common ones and the ones more frequently associated with reward based trainers. For a full list of any letters you may see after a trainer's name, check out this post from the APDT.

You can click on each of those up there for their own websites, but I'll give a quick run-down:

CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA:
These are all designations granted by the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers to those who have passed a standardized test that they are only allowed to sit for after approval by the Certification Council. In order to apply to sit for the test, an individual needs references from a veterinarian, a client, and a colleague in the training field. They also need at least 300 documented hours of work as the lead trainer in the three years leading up to them taking the test. Oh, and the ones with the -KSA have taken it a step further and have passed a knowledge and skills assessment, which means they take the same test, then provide video showing their capabilities working with dogs and people. The video proves that they can help train new behaviors, adjust to individuals and that they don't utilize force or any type of coercion.

IAABC:
The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants has different levels of membership, depending on skill level and experience. The Associate Certified Membership means that the individual has at least 300 hours experience in behavior consulting and 150 hours minimum of coursework (in these areas). The Certified Membership requires 500 hours of consulting and 400 hours of coursework at a minimum. 

APDT:
The Association of Professional Dog Trainers is a professional organization for trainers who are devoted to positive methods and continuing education. The only requirement is that you pay the annual dues, but this means that the trainer is at least putting forth the effort to train in a better way than we did 15 years ago.

ACAAB, CAAB:
The Animal Behavior Society is a professional certification organization that has two levels of certification. The Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist must hold a Master's degree from an accredited college or university in a biological or behavioral science with an emphasis in animal behavior, and have completed a research based thesis. They also need to have two years experience in applied animal behavior. The Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist must have a doctoral degree from an accredited college or university in a biological or behavioral science with an emphasis on animal behavior, including five years of professional experience, or a doctorate from an accredited college or university in veterinary medicine plus two years in a university-approved residency in animal behavior and three additional years of professional experience in applied animal behavior.

I know I keep harping on the reward based training and positive reinforcement training, but only because it's really important. I'll go into more detail in a later post, but for now feel free to read the ASVAB's position on punishment in training. In short, compulsion based training methods frequently do more harm than good and can quickly deteriorate a human-canine bond. Trainers who give up on reward based training either don't understand what they are doing, don't understand animal behavior, or are simply too lazy to follow it through. Reward based training does take more time. It does take more work. Results cannot be guaranteed unless pet parents keep up the work over time (and really, this is true for any type of training).

Above all, if you don't like the trainer- don't use them! If you meet with me for a consult and you don't like my personality, that's fine. Odds are I can tell and I really prefer not to work with people who don't want to work with me anyway. It seems like a waste of both our time and a waste of your money. Remember- it's your money and your time, and it should be money and time well spent.

Today's lesson:
Be sure to research your trainer, ask questions, ask for references, and ask about methods.

It That a Silver Fox in Your House, or Are You Just Happy to See Me?

I was listening to NPR the other day, specifically to RadioLab, one of my favorite shows. I was only barely listening to it since I was cozy on the couch with Roxie while working on client notes and updating some handouts, so I didn't realize what they were talking about right away. Then, I heard a name that was familiar to me- Dmitri Belyaev.

  Not My Picture, but this guy: Matt Knoth

You probably don't know who he was, but I do, so I'll share. He was a geneticist in Russia in the mid 1950's who studied (among other things) the Silver Fox. Now, this was actually under the guise of canine physiology because Stalin had outlawed further research into Mendelian genetics, and Dmitri's older brother had been exiled to a labor camp after it was discovered that they were still conducting these experiments. He was interested in how modern domesticated dogs, who were so diverse, had all come from a common ancestor- the undomesticated wolf. Naturally, there must be something *gasp* genetic that explained it all. He said he was working on new types of fur for coats (I don't like it any more than you do, but it happened and it's in the past so don't get mad at me for mentioning it- it's not like I OWN a fur coat) but he was really gathering all the friendliest silver foxes from fur farms for a little social experiment. He bred only the friendly foxes- that was the only selective trait that he was trying to keep. In 1964, they were four generations into this experiment and something really interesting was happening. The foxes were becoming friendly- like wagging tails and approaching people. Some would even jump into the researchers arms! Even more amazing- one was taken home for a time as a pet and it walked very well off leash (like a well trained dog) and came when called!

But wait,

There's more...

They began to change in appearance too. The traditional sought after silver-black coat began to retain white spots, their tails curled up after just a few generations and their ears began to flop over. They began to vocalize differently. They were becoming more juvenile or rather, they were staying juvenile.
It turns out that's what's so endearing to us about domestic dogs- they are juvenile in appearance and behavior. Compared to the wolf, they are clumsy and careless in many actions, not unlike an human child.

Wait.

It gets better.

Like any good, curious scientists, they wanted to see what happened if they bred the aggressive foxes only to each other. Naturally, they became more aggressive with each generation, as the friendly ones became more tame with each generation. As an example a kit (baby fox), who was more aggressive than it's mother was raised by a tame mother for the sake of the experiment. This fox was still quite aggressive towards people, which points more towards nature than nurture for aggression at this level at least.

Now, Belyaev died in 1985, but his experiment has been going ever since and after 50 years, has helped us to gather some new insights about domestication in general. For one thing, we have learned that things like aggression, ear position, tail position and coat color may be linked genetically. Not only that, but they figured out in the early 2000's that the foxes were more capable and willing to interact and do problem solving with people, and read human cues easily- as easily as domesticated canine puppies. The thing is, it's taken domestic canines thousands of years to do this but the foxes, bred only for the single trait of friendliness towards people had become strikingly similar to domestic dogs in only 10 generations- on appearance and attitude.

If you want more, listen to the episode of RadioLab or read about it on National Geographic's website. They break it down really well in the RadioLab eposide, then discuss how humans may have inadvertently bred themselves in a similar way. There's even a NOVA documentary that discusses the experiment and implications for domesticated dogs.


Sources:

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/nature/dogs-decoded.html


http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/03/taming-wild-animals/ratliff-text/2


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 I hope you have enjoyed this one, I'm going to bury my nose in a genetics book until my son wakes up from his nap.

What's your favorite dog trait? Waggy tails and floppy ears? Uncontrollable drool and fun splotchy coats?

Fetch It, Fetch It Good.

Munson absolutely LOVES sticks! Guess what his go-to fetch toy is..

We went to the beach over the weekend and in addition to swimming, sandcastles and surburn, we got to see lots of dogs on the beach. They were playing with their owners, swimming, digging and playing fetch. Did you know that some people never play fetch with their dogs?! I guess some people just don't like throwing things for their dog to bring back, but others just don't think their dog can do it. The more you play fetch with your dog, the more she wants to play it with you- it's a wonderful cycle of reinforcement for you both!!
Dude. Dogs like to run. They like to grab things. They like to share things that they grab with their people. Fetch is a perfect game for you both! Fetch is a great combination of physical and mental exercise ("where did it go?!") so it's a fantastic way to tire your dog out. As I always say, a tired dog is a good dog.
"But my don't won't fetch, I've tried!"
Really-have you tried, or have you tossed a ball, saying 'fetch' to your pooch while she was dozing off or watching squirrels?
Quick reminder- you speak English and your dog speaks human body language, dog language and the cues you TEACH her. English is a language that is not a first language for many dogs. That's why we TEACH them our (spoken) language (they are pretty good with the unspoken one already).

Without further ado, I want to help you and your dog learn fetch. I have outlined two methods below, both of which I have used with success. The first one is for dogs who already have an interest in chasing things and need help honing that skill on the correct things so it can turn into an enjoyable game for you both. The second is for those dogs who watch balls and sticks fly by with little interest. Believe me, it is completely possible to teach any dog (with a heartbeat and legs) how to fetch.

Oh, one more thing: try to figure out what types of things your dog likes to fetch, because the world is full of fetch-able things (balls, frisbees, sticks, stuffed animals, floating toys for water fetching...the list goes on). Once you find out that magical thing your dog loves, fetch will be more fun for you both.

Fetch (Option #1)
Why: It's so much fun!  Fetch is one of the best games you can play with your dog, it helps them to burn off energy, gives them a task to do and reinforces them returning to you!

What: You toss a toy, your dog retrieves it and brings it back, repeated until your dog is thoroughly tired! 

-pocket/pouch full of treats
-hungry dog
-15-20 foot leash, attached to a collar or harness
-quiet, comfortable area with room to toss a ball
-ball or other toy that can be tossed by you and carried easily by your dog
-patience!

How:
    1.    Start with a toy you know your dog loves and your dog on leash next to or in front of you.
    2.    Be sure the dog is focused on the toy- wave it in front of his/her face, if it has a squeaker, make it squeak.  Once the dog is focused on the toy, toss it a few feet away from both of you.
    3.    If the dog goes and retrieves it, say “fetch” as they grab it and encourage them to return to you.
    4.    Once they return to you, trade the toy for a small, tasty treat by holding a treat in front of their nose- once they drop the toy say “drop it”, click and treat.
    5.    If your dog does not chase after the toy, you should chase after it, making it seem like such a fun game so that your dog wants to mimic you.  It may take a few tries, but your dog will get the hang of it and chase the toy while you stand still.
    6.    Repeat, gradually increase the distance you toss the toy.
    7.    As your dog is consistently trading the toy for a treat, with “drop it” begin to give treats randomly.

Tips:
-You have your dog on leash when first working this behavior in case they do not want to return to you, if they do not want to bring the toy back, give a gentle tug and encourage him/her to return to you.
-Even dogs who do not retrieve naturally can be taught to play fetch, it just takes patience and time from you!

More:
-As your dog improves and consistently returns the toy and drops it, you can remove the leash and increase the distance you throw it.
-Once you are ready to go outdoors with this activity, keep the dog on leash until he/she is consistently performing in the new distracting environment.


Fetch (Option #2)*
Why: It's so much fun!  Fetch is one of the best games you can play with your dog, it helps them to burn off energy, gives them a task to do and reinforces them returning to you!

What: You toss a toy, your dog retrieves it and brings it back, repeated until your dog is thoroughly tired! 

-pocket/pouch full of treats
-hungry dog
-15-20 foot leash, attached to a collar or harness
-quiet, comfortable area with room to toss a ball
-ball or other toy that can be tossed by you and carried easily by your dog
-patience!

    1.    Hold a toy (that your dog likes) up to your his/her mouth and encourage him/her to take it.
    2.    Once he/she takes in in their mouth, hold your hand with a treat enclosed in front of their nose. The smell of the treat should cause him/her to drop the toy. Once they do, say 'drop it',  give a treat and grab the toy.
    3.    Repeat steps 1-2 until your dog quickly drops the treat at the sight of your hand in front of their nose.
    4.    Next, toss the toy a couple of feet away from you (and your dog!) and encourage them to go get it!
    5.    Once they get it, encourage them to come back to you. It should be relatively easy since you are keeping everything so close right now.
    6.    As your dog gets better, toss the toy further and further away and encourage your dog to cone back. Since they know you have treats, they will be willing to return to you and trade the toy for a treat.
    7.    Once they get into the habit of running to get the toy and bringing it back to you and dropping it in exchange for a treat, begin to only reward with a treat every other or every 3-4 times. The ultimate goal is to have the game of fetch be the reward!


Tips:
-You have your dog on leash when first working this behavior in case they do not want to return to you, if they do not want to bring the toy back, give a gentle tug and encourage him/her to return to you.
-Even dogs who do not retrieve naturally can be taught to play fetch, it just takes patience and time from you!
-If your dog is reluctant to chase after the toy, set an example! Go after the toy yourself and encourage your dog to come along.

More:
-As your dog improves and consistently returns the toy and drops it, you can remove the leash and increase the distance you throw it.
-Once you are ready to go outdoors with this activity, keep the dog on leash until he/she is consistently performing in the new distracting environment.

*Disclaimer: Option Number Two is actually not a method I developed myself, I learned about it from Renowned Behaviorist Sue Sternberg. I believe it was a video I picked up at one of her workshops when I lived up in NY but either way, she deserves the credit for developing this method for dogs who aren't fetch-prone out of the gate. She does a lot more than come up with innovative ways to train tricks; she has developed training and assessment tools for shelter dogs and helps dogs and their humans all over the country.

Now get out there and teach your dog something new!!