Product Review: Kyjen's Paw Hide

There are a ton of dog products out there- toys, leashes, harnesses, collars, bowls, feeders, the list goes on. I have recommended all kinds of products to clients (and friends and family) but I always have to add that "there is the chance it won't work for you/your dog as it has for me/other clients/friends/colleagues." Some dog related products can be pretty pricey and I don't want my clients wasting money on something that doesn't work as planned.
In light of that, I have decided to start adding product reviews to this blog. I have wholesale accounts through a couple of companies so I buy extra items to keep for myself for Roxie to try so I have a good idea of how they work before I go selling or recommending them to clients.

This time, it's the Kyjen Paw Hide:



Using Roxie as our guinea pig, we tried out out for dinner time when it first arrived. To he honest, I'm not sure who was more excited- our son, myself or Roxie.

To fill it is pretty easy; we just split up the 1/2 cup she gets for the meal into the 7 compartments, then place the yellow covers in them. At this point, we only fill some of them and do a couple rounds of searching so she is busy a bit longer. She definitely gets a little frustrated by the empty ones, but does still flip them over just in case, quickly moving on when they are empty. She doesn't try using her paws to flip the whole thing over at this point. There are actually little no-skid pads on the bottom to help prevent this and prevent it from sliding around, but as you can see in the video, it was still moving around a good bit on our kitchen floor that first time. On the carpet it's just fine so that's what we do-we have a toddler so we have crumbs to vacuum up all the time anyway!

I have uploaded videos of the first and fourth time she tried it out and she really seems to like it, despite the fact that it's a relatively simple puzzle. The first time, it took her about two and a half minutes to empty all compartments (with our son's help), in the second video she's down to just under two minutes.

We don't use it every day; we alternate between two food dispensing balls that she rolls around the house, a Kyjen Slo-Bowl (I'll do a review of that one later!), her regular bowl, and this one. It depends on how much time we have, how much our son wants to 'help' her and how much extra dish washing we feel like doing. It is dishwasher safe, but we tend to wash big stuff like this by hand to save room for all the cereal bowls that we go through. It dries pretty quickly after washing, so if we were less lazy it would be do-able for breakfast and dinner for her. It's made of material that is FDA approved for food, and seems to be holding up pretty well to Roxie's use of it. Like I said, she's not using it every meal, probably 2-3 times a week and it's still looking good after 3-4 months. Upon close inspection there are a few scratches but so far so good!

As far as puzzles go, this one is pretty easy for Roxie, but she really seems to like it, though it could just be that she likes food a lot. This is why we sometimes do a couple rounds of searching with it, so she gets more fun and we get more use out of it. I think this is a great starting point for young dogs or unsure dogs to build come confidence skills and burn some mental energy while using natural instincts to search out food.

Here's a link to the Kyjen website, it's also on Amazon and your local dog trainer may also have it available for resale ;)

http://shop.kyjen.com/paw-hide.html

Does your dog have a favorite food toy?

Mission Main Street Grant

I'm taking a break from my series on canine body language to tell you about an amazing opportunity I found out about recently. Every year, Chase Bank gives a bunch of money in the form of grants to small businesses. This year, they are giving 20 small businesses $100,000 each and I would really love for Smart Pups to be one of the lucky recipients.
The way it works is any for-profit small business that has 100 employees or less that has been in business for at least two years. There are a few more rules, feel free to check them out here. Eligible businesses submit an application, complete with five essay questions:

1. Tell us about your business and what makes it unique. Please provide a general description of your product, customers, competitive landscape and overall performance.
2. What inspired you to become an entrepreneur? Describe both your greatest achievements and biggest challenges.
3. How is your business involved with the community you serve? Examples include: giving back to the community, sourcing locally and/or contributing to economic development via hiring.
4. What would a $100,000 grant mean to your business and how will you utilize the funds? Please be as specific as possible.
5. What are your short-term (1-2 years) and long-term growth plans for the business? How will this grant contribute to your plan?

Those have to be answered in 200 words or less; let me tell you that was tough! Apparently I tend to use lots of words...

After submitting that, the small business isn't done- now they need to get 250 votes to get to the next stage of voting. The businesses that get 250 votes will then be reviewed by a panel selected by Chase, to find the twenty businesses most deserving of the grants. Here's a link to this year's panelists.
They choose the winners and notify them and the winners get to build their businesses and help their community. Oh yeah, they are all about how these winners will help their community. Not to brag or anything, but a dog trainer who understands dogs, people, science, behavior and communication is a perfect choice to help the community in which they live.
Before you go voting or not voting, I just wanted to share with you my dream for Smart Pups and how I would use this grant if I were to win.
Though I have faced challenges along the way in the form of difficult dogs and people, the biggest challenge I have face in the past 5 years has been finding a good, affordable facility for group classes. When Smart Pups was located in New York, I was lucky enough to build a friendship with another trainer who was generous enough to share her training facility when she wasn't using it. Here in Salisbury, I am currently renting outdoor space in an equestrian show ring, which works well. The downside is that it's outside so if it rains or it winter, I can't have class. The ring is not completely closed in and is outdoors so it's not fit for puppy class. What I plan to (someday) do it build a training facility, where there is indoor heated and cooled space as well as outdoor space for classes. With the indoor space, I won't have to watch the weather constantly and classes will have a more definite start and end date, making it easier to plan classes far in advance. With secure indoor and outdoor space, my clients will have the comfort of knowing their dog is safe and the environment is ideal for learning- no unexpected passers-by and comfort in all seasons. With a facility offering storage and more space, I could also offer more specialty classes like reactive dog class, puppy class and agility training. By offering more services, I could reach more of the dogs and their humans in my community and help them all to learn to be more polite and responsible when out and about. If more people understand their dogs, and more dogs are getting training and good socialization opportunities, the more well-behaved they are. The thing is, dog training isn't exactly the most lucrative career, unless you can get a T.V. show and work with celebrities. I don't see that in my future, so to build all this will mean saving up for a while and even then, taking out a loan to build. Not that I mind that- that's my plan and what I will do no matter what, but the opportunity to do it all so much sooner that I thought possible would be amazing.
So, if you have a minute, please go to https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/vote  and type in Smart Pups in the box, then click on vote. It does make you log in with facebook, because they want to verify you are a real person, but it all seems pretty kosher to me :)

That's it for this week- I'm going to finish up the next in the canine body language series and get it up (hopefully) within the next couple days.

Thanks and please vote for Smart Pups!

Honesty Really is the Best Policy (Canine Body Language Part 2)

I love it when new clients call or email before a consult and say something like "I'll have to muzzle her", "don't wear a hat", or "you can't shake our hands because it really freaks him out".

I love hearing these things because it gives me an idea of what to expect from a dog that is new to me. It also gives me an idea of how responsible their human is- someone who wants to avoid me being mauled by their dog is a person I would much rather work with than someone who wants me to  "see her at her worst".  I really, really don't want to be a guinea pig- I want to see your dog's behavior firsthand or on video if possible, but I can generally ask enough questions to get a good idea without fighting off a dog attack. When someone describes a detailed routine that they use to have their dog greet new people, I learn that they are at least trying something to prevent incidents.

Whether we end up going in a different direction or trying a different protocol, I am more than happy to work with clients like this.

When I worked as a vet tech, it was the same way. Sometimes it meant clients being put into two time slots in the schedule, or bringing a dog-aggressive dog into the clinic through the employee entrance. When clients came in with their dog already muzzled, or they told us "he's better when I'm not in the room, so I can wait in the lobby", it showed not only how well they knew their dog and themselves, but how much they trusted us. Their honesty with us was a big factor in that trust ever developing, since trust is a two way street in any relationship.

Why should this matter to you?

Well, it's Dog Bite Prevention Week (read more here) and it seems like a fitting time to remind all both of the readers of my little blog (thanks Matt and Heidi) that knowing your dog can save you, strangers and the pet professionals in your life. Your dog may never bite or attempt to bite anyone in her life, no matter how many times she may be pushed, but it is still good to know some basic body language so your dog doesn't have to feel uncomfortable and so you don't find yourself on the wrong end of a dog bite(... not that there really is a good end to be on when there's a dog bite...)
So, people who have reactive or fearful dogs have had to learn the hard way what body language means and you have me to help you learn some simple things.

-Tenseness in his face and body, especially if his whole body seems tense it means he needs a break from the situation or at the very least a good distraction- redirect him to you and ask for a sit, for example. The dog pictured here was unsure about the situation she was in (loud, unexpected noise) so I used the flash on the camera to highlight the tension in her body. We quickly redirected her after I snapped the picture so she wouldn't get more upset. 

In this picture, Roxie is relaxed and tolerating Ethan's shenanigans. There is little to no tension in her face and her body is relaxed. She is extremely tolerant and gets plenty of breaks (and treats).

See the difference in their faces? Look at the top of the head of the dog in the above picture- there are no wrinkles and her skin and hair seem to be flattened to her skull; Roxie has a couple wrinkles and her skin is actually loose looking.

-A 'hard stare', like the dog in the picture in the link below (I don't have any of my own pictures of a hard stare, sorry). The dog is staring intently and seems to be otherwise unmoving. This kind of stare from a dog would result in me dropping/tossing a treat, clapping my hands, making a kissy sound or taking one step to the side (as long as he is on leash and not reactive to unexpected movement from people)- something to distract him and break him out of it. This kind of stare is seen at times before a growl, bark or pounce. It is sometimes defined as a stare held for longer than 2 seconds. Now, this dog is laying down and seems otherwise relatively relaxed, but I'd still interrupt and have that kid moved away from the dog safely:

http://petsadviser.supercopyeditors.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/dog-stare.jpg

-If his pupils are dilated, like the dog pictured in the above link he is similarly unsure or feels threatened. Pupil dilation happens as a fear reaction because the body is trying to take in as much information as possible to find a safe escape or resolution.

-His tail is an obvious indicator, but is only part of the equation. A happy tail is a tail that is wagging loosely, in line with the body. An unsure tail is one that is tucked. A tail that is in play and/or prey mode can be held high, almost straight up. If the tail is low but wagging, he is likely conflicted. Here, Violet is happy and loosely wagging her tail level with her body. The rest of her body is relaxed and her face has little to no tension. If there is any, it's because of the frisbee that's out of the picture, which she had to put down a minute ago. 

Compare that with her tail below, tucked tightly because she doesn't want Oscar to get too friendly. If you can see her face, her pupils are dilated and she is quite wide-eyed. She even has a little bit of what we call 'whale eye'. Her eyes are wide open and you can see the whites of her eyes because despite her discomfort with the situation, she doesn't want to let Oscar out of her sight. 

I will admit that we did not move fast enough with this one- she did jump up and snap at Oscar about 3 seconds after this. I was actually looking more at Oscar than Violet in this one, so I didn't see the whole picture. Otherwise I would have had Oscar immediately moved away from her and I would not have attempted the photo. They got over it though- he's learned to be more polite and she is a bit more tolerant. 

-Avoidance- If a dog is turning or looking away from something, like Roxie is getting up and turning away from a young Ethan with a cup full of water (her Kryptonite), they need an escape. If left cornered, some dogs will resort to biting in defense. 
No worries, After I took the picture I grabbed Ethan and the water cup and let Roxie go inside to escape the terror. 

 All of that said, there's more. I'll do another post on body language next week as a follow up, but this is a good start for you. The important thing to remember with body language is that you have to look at the whole dog- not just the tail or face. You have to see everything in between too; know the situation and how the dog is when relaxed so you have a baseline. There are different levels of relaxed, excited, agitated, worried, etc. for every dog.

You have homework this week: find your dog's baseline- take pictures of your dog, in everyday situations and in situations that your dog is unsure about (as long as you have at least one other person to help out with leash handling and removal of stimuli if/when necessary). It's amazing how looking at a picture can show us so much more than we see in real life. Getting to know your dog is the first step to communicating well and making the world a better place for you both, especially if you have a fearful or reactive dog.

Guest Post: Cheesecake

I am so happy when my clients see an improvement in their dog's behavior. I am absolutely thrilled if they brag about their dog and mention me!
This week's post is by a client of mine and one of the sweetest puppies I know, Cheesecake.
Cheesecake had a rough start- probably not bred intentionally or responsibly and in her first home she was left alone in a bedroom for days at a time (at least she had food and water). I'm pretty sure she has forgotten most of that by now, since she lives with some really great folks who love her and want her to be a good ambassador for bully breeds.
I'm happy to say that she's well on her way to being that ambassador after just a few weeks of training- I can't wait to see what else this pup will do to amaze us!

http://thecheesecakechronicles.blogspot.com/2015/03/its-not-just-fun-and-games.html


What skill(s) has your dog picked up that helped you to live well with them?

It's Not the Leash, It's the Owner!

So, retractible leashes...

To tell you the truth, I generally advise against them. Personally I'm not a fan, have only had few good encounters with them and they are not allowed in my group classes. When a client pulls out the retractible leash so we can go on a walk to see their dog's excessive pulling, the first question is if they have a regular, non-retractible leash. They have a bunch of downsides:

-They actually teach dogs that pulling is a perfectly fine activity that pays off- if a dog pulls, they get up to 20 feet of leash!
-Painful rope burns if you get caught in them. I know this from personal experience- it freakin' hurts and burns and this can happen when it's not even your dog or leash.
-Little to no control over of the dog. Seriously, your dog has 20 feet to roam and play and explore with you at the other end. As long as they aren't attacking anyone, a lot of people let them do this at will and only reel their dog in when there is already a problem.
-Safety- or the lack thereof. I have seen waaaay too many people walking their dog on a retractible leash; the person on the sidewalk and the dog in the street, 8-15 feet away from them! I sure hope these dogs have a solid recall for when a car comes zooming down the street so they don't both go flying into the air.
-If your dog pulls hard (which is easy because of all the extra momentum they have already) and the leash gets out of your hands, the plastic holder will chase your dog away. I have actually had this happen. Many moons ago, when I was young and these leashes were all new and fancy, I was walking my aunt's dogs (my first mistake was walking multiple dogs with these things). One of the dogs pulled and of course I dropped the retractible leash. Not only did I have a dog running away to see something he wanted, I had him running faster and looking behind him to see what was following him. Let's just say I was late to work that day, but I didn't need my afternoon run.

Now that I have told you how I really feel about them, I want to tell you a secret.

They aren't all that bad. 
I don't know why I'm telling you this because I really want your dog on a regular leash, but I guess that if you are really set on a retractible leash, I want to make sure you can succeed with it. One of my rules with training is to make it as easy as possible for the human to succeed first. If I harass them about equipment and tell them they have done everything wrong, I'm not building a good relationship with that person. Without a good relationship with that person, I can't help them or their dog. If I can't help them or their dog, I can't make a living doing this and I have to find another job. I really don't want to get a different job- I love the one I have. Since I love my job, I have learned to be (absolutely no pun intended) flexible with pet parents. For that reason, I have been able to see the potential good in these retractible leashes.

-They are a great opportunity to practice recall on a long leash without the worry of getting tangled up in it (or picking up stray sticks along the way).
-They are helpful for older dogs who have vision or hearing problems- the comfort of feeling that tension from the leash can help them to feel more at ease in the big, scary world.
-It can allow scared dogs the opportunity to escape from scary things that their owner may not see right away, allowing them to understand they have control of a situation and start to build confidence.
-By walking back and forth between owner and the end of the leash, the dog can get twice (or more) the exercise as they would otherwise.
-The added distance and walking back and forth allows the dog ample opportunity to sniff and explore the environment. This makes the walk more enriching (read: fun) for the dog. If they have more fun and get some mental stimulation, the dog is bound to fare better in training and life with people in general.

How can you ensure that you are using that retractible leash to the best of your and your dog's ability and maintaining a safe walk for all?

Not to worry, I've got a few tips:

-Frequently practice the recall on leash. Like, every few minutes sometimes. This is a great way to practice the 'catch and release' recall: call your dog to you and when they get to you, give them lots of love and attention, play with their collar and let them go play and explore again. I LOVE the catch and release recall because it teaches your dog that you calling them doesn't always mean the fun is ending. The more your dog is used to coming when called, the less reliant you are on the leash to reel your dog in and the better your dog is with the recall... which is a really swell thing to be good with.

-Practice polite leash manners, no matter what type of leash you have. If you see another dog approaching, recall your dog and only allow greetings if it's ok (verbal ok by person, and body language is accepting for both dogs). Watch out for other pedestrians during walks, especially when on trails or sidewalks. It's really no fun getting clotheslined by a leash, I've been there and still have the scars to prove it.

-Apparently some of the new retractible leashes have wrist straps so that if /when the leash gets pulled out of your hand, it's still attached to you. This can prevent the leash from chasing your dog around the block, which will save you both time and headache.

-Use common sense, please. No matter what type of equipment you use, it should be checked before every walk (I check every dog entering every class and before going out on walks during private lessons). Harnesses and leashes can loosen over time, nylon or leather leashes can get ripped or stretched and retractible leashes can crack and break open. Take the time to look it over as you put this equipment on your dog, it could save a life. Also, please, please DO NOT use a head halter or prong/choke collar with a retractible leash. The risk of damage is really too great if the dogs pulls to the end of the line too hard. Harnesses are my go to for walking in general.

If you can be a responsible leash user, you can have success with any leash!

Guest Post: Queen Roxie, the Spoiled Pittie Pup

Hey all. Amanda had to chase after the 2 year old human because of something called a "sharpie" on the "rug". I'm not sure what it's all about, except that it seems to involve that spray stuff she uses when there is a mess on the floor and I don't like the smell. It makes me sneeze; sneezing confuses me. While she's busy, I took advantage of her open and logged-in laptop to let you know something.

I think my humans have a problem. They are always asking me to do things. I have to sit before I get my leash on and once I come back in from a walk before I get my leash off. I have to drop the ball before they throw it again and I have to wait for the little human to be out of the way before I can run after the ball. When it's time for food, they ask me to sit and sometimes ask me to shake or high five or place before I can eat. Sometimes they mix it up with new things to keep me on my toes, do you think I look like I need to be on my toes more?

I'm telling you this because I am worried about my people. I think they have something called Obsessive-Compulsive behaviors with me. Like they think I can't eat without sitting and waiting first?! Believe me, I can. I mean I eat a little more slowly when they make me sit first, but what does that matter? Lately, we haven't gone on walks or runs as much because there's lots of that cold, kinda wet stuff on the ground. They call it "snow". I don't mind that snow stuff, but after a little bit my toes get cold and I'm ready to go back inside, so I'm ok with not getting as many walks lately. I think they are getting worse with the obsessive-compulsive mess since we are stuck inside more. The lady-human has been spending more time teaching me new things and having me show her that I remember stuff she has taught me before. She calls these things "cues" or "behaviors". I really don't care what they are called, as long as I can figure them out and get a treat or a game of tug when I'm done. The little 2 year old human likes to help feed me dinner, and even he asks me to sit and wait, and the same for when he tosses the tennis ball down the hall or up the stairs for me to chase. Isn't it unhealthy for a little one to have this OCD stuff? The tall guy human likes to wrestle and play tug, then in the middle of it all he stops and asks me to settle. He can't even play for 10 minutes without this disorder popping up. The other day I really got them confused though. They have had a lot of "work" lately, which means they leave for a while and then come back smelling different. The lady always comes back from work smelling like a dog- sometimes 4 or 5 different ones! I don't get why she never asks me to come with her, but that's a story for another time. Anyway, the other day they didn't leave me one of my food toys to chase around and were gone for a long time (later, they said something about "a whole 4 hours"). I got bored and tried something I haven't done for a while- I jumped up to look at the counter and saw something really fun- one of the little boy's food toys (which are always way easier than mine, by the way) filled with all kinds of snacks. It was a little tough to get the lid off, but a little chewing loosened it and I had a small feast. Then I took a nap until they got home. The next day, their OCD picked up more. The lady started a couple of new training games and said something about ordering new interactive toys.

I think the lady is almost done with the sharpie and the rug, so I'll get to the point- I think they need help, and if any of you have experienced the same OCD problems with your people let me know how you resolved it. I really want to get them the help they need before it's too late and they are completely consumed by it.

Double Trouble, or Why You May Not Want Sibling Pups

I want this post to serve as an educational one, and a warning all at once. I like to multi-task. I want to tell you about the dangers of getting two puppies from the same litter.
One of the services I provide for my clients is new dog counseling. We discuss lifestyle, including hours spent out of the home, outdoor activities, number of people living in the home, visitors, other pets, and the list goes on. We discuss whether they want to adopt/rescue or buy from a reputable breeder. Let me say that I'm all about adopting from a shelter or going through a rescue organization, but if someone really wants a specific breed and wants a puppy, I don't see anything wrong with buying from a good breeder. We'll get into this in another post, but I wanted to put it out there- I don't think that opting for a breeder is in itself a bad thing. Plenty of breeders work hard to improve their breed and do extensive background checks on potential owners to ensure the well-being of their pups.
Anyway- I try to figure out a good balance between what people want in a dog, what they can realistically give to the dog, and what the dog will need from them. We then work to get the new pup (or adopted older pup or senior citizen pup) acclimated to the new home, address any behavior issues and start on basic training commands. It's really rewarding to help put the pieces together and see new relationships develop when I do this, I know I'm setting them all up for a great life together.
Except...
When folks want to throw a big wrench into it.
By getting two litter mates.
I know it's tempting- they are cute, they are siblings, and they'll keep each other company so it'll be a little easier for the humans, right?
Almost. It's so almost true that I want to believe it. They are adorable, they will probably love living together, but the humans in these cases have a lot more on their plate than they expect.
Ask anyone who has twin children- it's double the work, especially at the beginning. With dogs, it's the same but for slightly different reasons.
Sibling pups can have a handful of issues:

Bonding

They can bond so well with each other that they all but ignore the people in their family (or any other pets, for that matter). This becomes especially troublesome when you are working on things like recall and leash walking, and your dog really doesn't care what you say. It makes sense that they would bond better with each other- they've already been acquainted for quite some time once you get them so you are fighting an uphill battle to get them to care about you.

Bullying

Pups who are siblings can sometimes exhibit more bullying tendencies- one to the other, or by them ganging up on another pet. This is based largely on my experience and that of other canine professionals, so it may not be as widespread, but it's out there. It may be that one pup was protected by other litter mates before going to their new home and now the 'bully' pup has the freedom to be a jerk all the time. As siblings who do everything together, bullying of another dog (or even a person) is worse when there are two dogs doing it. 

Health 

Genetically, siblings will have a lot in common. This means they will be similarly adorable and will grow to be about the same size. It also means that if there are any genetic health issues or deformities, you'll get it times two. Anything as simple as sensitivities to food, allergies to things like cancer or heart defects are generally shared between litter mates. It could mean double the cost of special food or vet bills and /or double heartache if they both pass away at the same time, or early in life. 

Temperament

The other thing that is passed on in DNA (to some extent) is temperament. Any behaviors from severe aggression to extreme timidness are sculpted by genetics and the early environment- which is just about identical for canine siblings. Organizations that train guide dogs have discovered that there can be a tendency for one of the pups to develop a more shy or submissive personality and for the other to be more outgoing- any good guide dog group won't send two puppies to a home to be raised together. 

BUT

Just because someone gets litter mates, it does not automatically mean any or all of the above issues will ever present themselves, or at least not at a level that it affects daily life. I have known plenty of litter mates who have done great- fantastic through all training, no bullying of anyone and live long healthy lives. The thing is, their humans have been people who were really committed to their dogs. They made (or had) time to commit to working with the dogs a LOT. They also seemed to be dogs who were pretty good temperament-wise anyway, so that's a plus. So, to ensure success with litter mates, and to ensure that they don't take over everything, there are some simple steps to take. 

1. Look at breeds- some breeds will be more difficult in pairs- sight/scent hounds who are siblings can be much more work than say, retrievers. Hounds tend to work more independently of their people and are bred to have what I call "doggie ADHD". They are bred to be on the lookout for things and it is very strongly ingrained in them. Retrievers are similarly bred to know their environment and seek out things, but they are meant to work closely with a person (or people). By trying to find a breed that is more inclined to work closely with a person, your odds of success are higher and your work won't be as hard.

2. If you want to ensure success with two pups from the same litter, the first step is to find a fantastic breeder. It will likely be an uphill battle to get two pups from a good breeder, because they are aware of all the things I have mentioned and want the best for their pups. If you can prove yourself worthy, they'll probably let it happen though. By choosing a great breeder, you can significantly diminish or eliminate the chances of serious health problems or temperament problems, so your job is just a bit easier still.

3. This one is really important, and if I weren't listing chronologically it would be first because this can make or break any dog pair's success in a home with people. The dogs need time away from each other. This means crating separately and spending time with their people individually. This needs to be done just about every day. I'm talking about walks with you and one dog, training on cues with one dog and the other dog being in another room; outings to meet other doggie friends individually. They need to be able to develop socially as individuals to be successful as with people. All obedience training needs to be done with both dogs; each individually and then together so that the behavior can be generalized and proofed. This one is not always easy; I'm not gonna lie. Raising a dog takes time, money, and effort. Raising two dogs takes at least twice that much. 

4. Lower your expectations when they are together. Until you have done many months or years worth of work, the dogs will still be very easily distracted by one another. That's why you need to develop proficiency with one dog before working two (or more) dogs together. 

Any of you out there have sibling pups?

Links & Resources: 

The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior, by Clarence Pfaffenberger  (actually originally published in 1963; presents information on puppy development and offered at the time a brand new perspective on puppy temperament testing. This is how Guide Dogs for the Blind figured it out!)

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/13_1/features/Problems-Adopting-Two-Puppies-At-Once_16190-1.html?pg=3

http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/adopting-out-two-dogs-littermates-too-bonded-to-separate

http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/adopting-littermates-dont